Wednesday, June 22, 2005

Magical Istanbul

Rating:★★★★★
Category:Other
While choosing a romantic destination for our spring getaway a couple of years ago, we were perplexed between Istanbul and the South of France. After doing our homework and research, we decided South of France could wait.

Just the mention of the name evokes mystery, supremacy, history and civilization. Straddling on two continents, Europe and Asia, and originally built on seven hills like Rome, Istanbul is a truly magical city. Overlooking the Sea of Marmara, divided by the Bosphorus Strait, Istanbul is now home to more than 12 million inhabitants. In the mid-fifteen hundreds, when this city was still called Constantinople, it was the biggest city in the world. No surprises then if you find magnificent culture, rich history, spectacular cuisine and blazing modernity in this fantastic metropolis.

We arrived late afternoon and were swiftly whisked to a beautiful little hotel in the Sultanahmet area, near the famous Blue Mosque or Sultanahmet Camii. Early in the evening, we gorged on a sumptuous Turkish dinner accompanied by a beautiful water fountain and light show shown nightly at the Blue Mosque’s entrance. After we had our fill of meze (appetizers), iskender kebab (grilled lamb), raki (a popular drink known as Lion’s Milk, a grape spirit flavored with aniseed) and mouth-watering baklava (sweet filo pastry), we were ready to explore the town. Our first stop was to watch the Whirling Dervish performance, reminiscent of the Sufi order that was the heart of Istanbul’s spirit until it was abolished in the 1920’s. The performance consists of a group of men wearing flowing white robes spinning around relentlessly and flawlessly as if on an axis accompanied by haunting music. We then headed to an outdoor café to smoke water pipes and watched the Istanbulis and tourists alike pass while we engaged in one of Turkey’s nationa l pastimes, playing the well-loved backgammon and sipping very sweet elma çay (apple tea).

Our first stop in the morning the next day after a breakfast of the omnipresent simit (sesame bread ring), was the celebrated and beautiful Aya Sofya, originally christened as a church, converted into a mosque after the Ottoman conquest and now a museum. Topkapi Sarayi or Topkapi Palace was next on our list. The palace is home to some of the most prized Imperial Treasures including the 86-carat Spoonmaker’s Diamond. It also houses the legendary Harem and several of the most sacred relics in Islam, including a hair and tooth of Prophet Mohammed (Yes, I too was surprised!). After lunching on heavenly saç kavurma (wok-fried meat and veggies) and juicy döner, we headed to the Arkeoloji Müzesi or simply Archaeological Museum. Located next door to Topkapi Palace, it offers some of the world’s finest collection of artifacts and classical sculptures. After a full day of sightseeing, we decided to set off to Taksim Meydani or Taksim Square for
dinner and a taste of Stambul’s nightlife. A business hub at day, Taksim materializes into an amazing endless maze of streets filled with out door cafés, bars, clubs and restaurants at night. We enjoyed a hearty köfte (meat balls) and the ubiquitous Efes beer for dinner at one the livelier outdoor eateries. As the evening wore on, we kept seeing fashionable people going in to a dark and
deserted building near our café without any shop sign. We wandered over and went up the stairs. After passing the bouncer, lo and behold, we found a gem of a three-story bar cum club packed with beautiful people in the know. Thumping music, carousing, lots of dancing, anything and everything is available for the asking!

Nursing the excess of our exhilarating night, we dedicated our third day in Istanbul for shopping.Immersing ourselves in Kapalicarsi or Covered Bazaar, one of the largest and most famous covered markets in the world, we discovered shopping galore! Selling everything from carpets, jewelry, books, precious stones, leather, clothes, foodstuff, spices, antiques, knock-off Gucci bags to tourist memorabilia, this market accommodates 4,000 shops and restaurants. We made sure to bring
enough Travelers Cheques (as this place is also notorious for its pickpockets) and a well-used American Express card to satisfy our shopping craves! After building an enormous appetite for a late lunch, we sat ourselves at one of the numerous stalls in the market that served a gorgeous iºkembe çorbasi (tripe soup), a delicious heartwarming dish also known as a hangover cure. Finally, to relieve our swollen muscles from the grueling task of shopping, we treated ourselves to a superb hamami (Turkish bath), where they gave us a proper full body scrub and massage at a hararet (hot room) before bathing. We had our hamami at Gedik Pasa Baths, which date back from 1475 and is one the oldest and grandest baths in the city.

After a fantastic fish dinner with Çankaya wine on the Bosphorus and a good night’s sleep, wedecided to spend our last full day for an excursion to Adalar or the Princes’ Islands, journeying a two-hour scenic ferry ride from Sirkeçi pier. It was named the Princes’ Islands as it used to serve as a place for exiled royals who were no longer welcomed at court. The islands are a pedestrian’s bliss, as motor vehicles are not allowed. All the better, as walking is a much better
way to enjoy the beaches and roam the narrow streets to enjoy the beautiful konaks (wooden summer homes) where rich Istanbulis spend their weekends, while licking our luscious hazelnut dondurma (homemade Turkish ice cream).

We spent the last morning wandering around town and traipsing into the odd mosques and museums that caught our fancy, all the while taking in the scenery and the city’s vibe as much as we can. Two flight stops, twelve hours and three extra kilos later, we were back in good ole Jakarta. We realize we haven’t seen all the magic that magical Istanbul has to offer, but no regrets, as we definitely will make it an excuse to come back! And the best thing of it all? You don’t even need a visa!

Ain't life grand?


Vietnam: Negara Cantik Ini…

Rating:★★★★
Category:Other
Negara cantik ini terletak di kawasan Indo-Cina, bertetanggaan dengan Kamboja, Laos dan Cina, serta kaya dengan kebudayaan dan keindahan alam. Penduduknya hidup dengan damai dan tenteram, berpendidikan serta santun. Inilah Vietnam. Walau masa lalunya banyak bergurat dengan peperangan dan kesedihan, Vietnam sekarang sudah mulai bangkit menunjukkan keperkasaannya. Sektor ekonomi di berbagai industri telah menggeliat dan gerbang bagi pelancong juga sudah terbuka lebar. Ini terbukti dari investasi luar negeri yang deras berdatangan serta dibebaskannya visa turis bagi pengunjung yang berasal dari negara-negara ASEAN, termasuk Indonesia.

Sebelum berangkat, kerap kawan dan kerabat bertanya mengapa kami memilih Vietnam sebagai destinasi liburan. Kami menjawab dengan mengatakan bahwa kami ingin melihat Vietnam sebelum negara itu terlalu banyak berubah terhembus angin modernisasi. Namun, pada saat itu kami sendiri belum yakin apa yang akan kami temukan!

Kami melewatkan hampir dua minggu di Vietnam dan melakukan perjalanan melalui darat, udara dan air, dimulai dengan Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) yang hiruk-pikuk sebagai urat nadi ekonomi, Hué yang bersejarah, Halong Bay yang luar biasa indah serta Hanoi yang elok dan romantis.

Ada dua hal yang langsung menarik perhatian kami ketika tiba di Vietnam. Pertama adalah bahwa negara ini dipenuhi oleh kendaraan beroda dua. Jarang sekali ada mobil pribadi yang berlalu-lalang di jalanan dibandingkan dengan motor dan sepeda, bahkan dengan kendaraan umum dan pejalan kaki. Yang satunya lagi adalah, hampir tidak ada warganya, laki-laki maupun perempuan, tua atau muda, yang bertubuh tambun. Tak pelak lagi kami berpikir bahwa kedua hal tersebut pasti saling berhubungan. Namun setelah melewatkan waktu yang cukup di Vietnam, kami menemukan bahwa tak hanya masalah transportasi, namun makanan, tradisi bekerja keras dan budaya turut memberikan andil dalam paradigma penduduk bertubuh langsing ini!

Ho Chi Minh City

Sebagai pemberhentian pertama, kami melewatkan beberapa hari di HCMC, kota bersejarah namun modern dan penuh warna ini. Dengan penduduk lebih dari 7 juta orang, HCMC yang dulu bernama Saigon, adalah kota terbesar di Vietnam. Hotel-hotel internasional berbintang lima bertaburan dan banyak perwakilan perusahaan asing berbasis di kota ini. Toko-toko yang menjajakan segala kebutuhan manusia juga bisa ditemukan. Sarat dengan monumen historis seperti Museum of Ho Chi Minh City, History Museum, Reunification Palace, Fine Arts Museum, Notre Dame Cathedral, Central Post Office, pagoda-pagoda Jade Emperor dan Giac Lam serta masih banyak lagi, HCMC adalah surga bagi pecinta belanja serta sejarah.

Terbagi menjadi 16 distrik urban dan 5 distrik rural, kawasan malam HCMC terdapat di Dong Khoi yang terletak di Distrik 1, dimana banyak terdapat kafe udara terbuka maupun segala macam restoran dan bar. Peninggalan penjajahan Perancis yang sangat terlihat di Vietnam, selain dari arsitektur kota atau bangunan, adalah budaya ‘ngopi’ penduduknya yang gemar bersendau gurau di kafe pinggir jalan sambil mengesap kopi Vietnam yang manis dan kental. Tak lupa kami mencicipi kopi Vietnam andalan tersebut di kedai kopi Starblack (ini bukan salah tulis, kedai kopi itu memang bernama Starblack!) yang cukup populer sambil beraksi seperti orang lokal. Melewati malam minggu sambil berjalan-jalan di Dong Khoi sambil menyantap makanan Vietnam yang nikmat dan segar, serta dikelilingi oleh kawula muda HCMC yang modis dan rupawan, sungguh sudah merupakan hiburan tersendiri. Boleh ditambahkan bahwa bar dan klub malam yang ditawarkan oleh HCMC tak kalah seru dan bergairah dibandingkan dengan yang ada di kota-kota besar lainnya di Asia.

Distrik Cholon, nama yang diberikan untuk kawasan yang mayoritas dihuni oleh keturunan ras Cina, patut dikunjungi karena banyak terdapat bangunan kuil dan pagoda yang bernafaskan budaya tersebut. Di kawasan ini pula terdapat pusat-pusat perbelanjaan semacam Mangga Dua yang tak pantas dilewatkan jika ingin mendapatkan berbagai benda menarik khas Vietnam. Salah satu lagi area menarik yang kami kunjungi adalah kawasan Pham Ngu Lao, yaitu pusatnya para wisatawan beransel. Disini kami menemukan ‘kampung’ turis penuh dengan bar, hotel dan restoran yang dipadati oleh manusia dari berbagai manca negara.

Hué

Setelah HCMC, kami terbang ke Hué yang terletak di Vietnam Tengah yang berpenduduk seperempat juta jiwa dan terletak di kedua sisi Perfume River. Secara historis Hué merupakan pusat budaya, pendidikan dan agama di Vietnam dan sempat menjadi ibukota pada kerajaan masa lampau. Kota Hué menyimpan sejumlah pagoda, kuil dan pusara megah dari dinasti Nguyen serta Royal Citadel yang patut dikunjungi. Dengan mengendarai sebuah kapal, kami seharian penuh menelusuri Perfume River untuk melihat peninggalan bersejarah yang sungguh mengagumkan dan menikmati pemandangan alam yang indah. Dua pusara yang membuat kami sungguh terkesan adalah pusara Tu Duc dan Minh Mang. Tak kami sangka betapa kayanya budaya Vietnam!

Berhawa sejuk dan bergaya hidup tenang tak tergesa-gesa, kota ini mengingatkan kami dengan paduan kota Bogor dan Yogyakarta pada tahun 80’an. Kami tak heran bahwa kerajaan masa lalu Vietnam memilih kota Hué sebagai ibukotanya. Dengan latar belakangnya itu, Hué juga terkenal sebagai pusat kuliner Vietnam. Di kota ini kami menikmati berbagai masakan lezat yang sulit dijumpai di kota-kota lain di Vietnam seperti banh bo (semacam lontong dengan gerusan udang) dan bun bo he (bihun kering dengan sayur dan sup daging sapi).

Hari berikutnya di Hué kami lewatkan dengan mengikuti tur DMZ (Demilitarised Zone). DMZ adalah area perbatasan antara Vietnam Selatan dan Vietnam Utara yang ditetapkan oleh Konperensi Postdam pada tahun 1945 dan merupakan salah satu area yang paling banyak memakan korban pada saat perang Vietnam dan Amerika. Salah satu yang paling menarik dari tur ini adalah ketika kami mengunjungi Vin Moc Tunnels. Sebelum perang, Vin Moc merupakan sebuah desa nelayan yang tentram. Setelah berkali-kali desa Vin Moc dibombardir, para penduduknya sepakat untuk memindahkan desa tersebut ke bawah tanah. Kami menelusuri lorong bawah tanah sepanjang 2,8 kilometer dengan kedalaman 15 hingga 26 meter, dimana pada zaman perang pernah tinggal puluhan keluarga selama bertahun-tahun dengan fasilitas seperti sekolah, tempat bersalin, bioskop dan lain sebagainya.


Halong Bay

Puas menjelajahi Hué, kami berangkat menumpang pesawat dengan tujuan Hanoi, ibukota Vietnam yang terletak di bagian utara. Namun setelah tiba, kami langsung menyambung perjalanan kami melalui darat untuk menuju ke Halong Bay. Halong Bay yang terletak di Teluk Tonkin, terdiri dari lebih dari 3000 pulau yang menjulang dan merupakan salah satu situs World Heritage di Vietnam. Pertama kali kami melihat pemandangan Halong Bay yang mengagumkan dari jendela mobil, hanya mulut berbentuk O saja yang dapat kami lakukan. Tidak ada kata-kata yang secara eksplisit dapat melukiskan betapa magisnya skene Halong Bay!

Saat-saat matahari terbit dan tenggelam adalah waktu yang tepat untuk menikmati keindahan pemandangan Halong Bay. Untuk menyaksikan kemegahannya lebih dekat, kami menyewa sebuah kapal sehari penuh untuk mengelilingi area tersebut dan juga untuk berhenti di beberapa pulau yang terdapat gua yang bisa dieksplorasi. Beberapa gua yang patut dikunjungi adalah Hang Dau Go dan Hang Sung Sot yang penuh dengan stalaktit dan stalagmit raksasa yang menakjubkan. Tak cuma itu, setiap malam di Halong City kami puas menyantap hidangan laut beraneka ragam yang segar dan lezat. Setelah beberapa hari menikmati Halong Bay kami langsung berangkat untuk menuju kembali ke Hanoi, beravonturir dengan menumpang bus umum antar kota yang padat sesak oleh manusia dan bawaan. Pelayanan dan kondisi bus tersebut tak beda jauh dengan bus umum antar kota yang biasa kita dapat tumpangi di pulau Jawa, sehingga mau tidak mau kerinduan kami pada Tanah Air sedikit terobati!

Hanoi

Hanoi dengan jumlah penduduk 3,5 juta jiwa dan terkenal dengan Opera House-nya serta dihiasi oleh danau, taman, pohon rindang dan jalan-jalan luas bak kota Paris, ternyata juga menyimpan segudang tujuan wisata yang menarik. Sebagai ibukota negara, terdapat banyak bangunan pemerintah serta wakil kedutaan negara-negara sahabat, sehingga gedung dan rumah yang berarsitektur kolonial Perancis berderet bagaikan perhiasan di jalanan utama turut menambah keelokan kota.

Saat tiba, tujuan pertama kami adalah Danau Hoan Kiem yang terletak di jantung kota Hanoi. Sambil duduk di salah satu café yang mengelilingi danau tersebut yang menjajakan es krim dan kue, kami menghabiskan satu sore yang santai, asyik menonton warga Hanoi dan turis saling berlalu-lalang.

Keesokan harinya kami mengunjungi Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum dimana kami menyaksikan jasad Ho Chi Minh yang telah diawetkan. Dalam kompleks yang sama, kami mengunjungi rumah sederhana yang dulu ditempati Ho Chi Minh serta istana presiden. Terlihat sekali bahwa warga Vietnam masih sangat menghomati pahlawan mereka yang satu ini. Tak lupa kami menyempatkan untuk melihat pagoda One Pillar yang dibangun pada abad 11 oleh Kaisar Ly Thai Tong sebagai tanda terima kasih karena dikaruniai putra mahkota, yang terletak tak jauh dari situ.

Suguhan tarian tradisional Vietnam di Opera House yang terkenal kami nikmati pada malam harinya yang dilanjutkan dengan mencoba masakan ikan terkenal khas Hanoi yaitu cha ca di restoran La Vong yang pada kartu menunya cukup hanya tertera satu kalimat: “Di restoran ini kami hanya menyuguhkan cha ca. Trims.” Tak diragukan kenikmatannya!

Hari terakhir kami di Hanoi kami lewati dengan mengunjungi Temple of Literature, tempat dimana universitas Vietnam yang pertama berdiri pada tahun 1076 serta bertujuan untuk mendidik putra-putra bangsawan. Kami hampir tak percaya bahwa Vietnam sudah memiliki sebuah perguruan tinggi sejak hampir seribu tahun yang lalu! Setelah puas melongok-longok di tempat bersejarah itu, kami menulusuri daerah Old Quarter yang dibangun pada saat yang hampir bersamaan dengan Temple of Literature. Beberapa abad setelah dibangun, perkumpulan pedagang di Hanoi membagi ke-36 jalan di area ini sesuai dengan barang dagangan mereka sehingga ada jalan yang bernama Jalan Sutera, Jalan Cermin, Jalan Timah dan lain sebagainya. Hingga saat ini, kawasan Old Quarter tetap menjadi salah satu pusat belanja utama di Hanoi.

Kuil Ngoc Son yang terletak di sebuah pulau di tengah Danau Hoan Kiem adalah tujuan berikut kami. Kuil ini dapat dicapai melalui jembatan kayu The Huc yang berwarna merah. Mungkin karena lokasi dan juga keindahan arsitekturnya, melewatkan beberapa waktu di kuil ini sungguh meneduhkan jiwa. Acara sore kami pada hari itu dilanjutkan dengan menikmati tontonan memikat khas Hanoi yang digemari oleh anak-anak maupun dewasa: Water Puppet Theatre; yaitu semacam pertunjukan wayang golek yang digelar di atas panggung air diiringi oleh musik dan nyanyian hidup tradisional.

Setelah hampir dua minggu kami bersantap masakan ala Vietnam untuk tiap makan pagi, siang dan malam, baik itu di warung pinggir jalan, restoran hotel maupun kafe turis; kami sepakat untuk memanjakan diri dengan bersantap malam di sebuah restoran Perancis di Hanoi yang paling elegan, yaitu The Press Club yang terletak di depan hotel Sofitel Metropole yang mewah pada malam terakhir kami di Vietnam. Kami rasa ini merupakan cara perayaan yang tepat untuk mengakhiri sebuah liburan yang mengesankan!

Keesokan harinya kami tinggal landas untuk kembali ke kota tempat tinggal masing-masing dengan membawa sejuta kenangan dan berjanji kepada diri sendiri untuk suatu saat kembali mengunjungi negeri yang menyimpan berbagai kejutan indah itu. Kerap kami ditanya oleh kawan dan kerabat mengenai petualangan kami sekembali dari Vietnam dan jawaban kami selalu dimulai dengan: “Negara cantik ini….” dengan mata menerawang dan senyum mengembang.


Tempat menginap yang direkomendasikan:
HCMC: The Rex, Caravelle, Sofitel Plaza
Hué: Saigon Morin, Century
Halong City: Halong Plaza, Heritage Halong
Hanoi: Sofitel Metropole, Guoman Hotel, Hilton Opera

Si penulis: Fathia Syarif lahir dan bermukim di Jakarta. Ia tertarik pada pelancongan dunia, petualangan, sejarah, sastra, budaya, seni kuliner, sesama manusia dan kehidupan.

Si fotografer: Benny Asrul adalah warga negara Indonesia yang sedang berdomisili di Singapura. Ia gemar menjalajahi bumi dan memotret di segala penjuru dunia. Seorang avonturir yang introvert, ia bekerja di sebuah perusahaan minyak.

Fathia dan Benny bersahabat karib. Ini adalah petualangan mereka bersama yang pertama

Tuesday, June 21, 2005

The Perfect Meal

In the endeavour of attaining The Perfect Meal, I have known many people who have gone to great lengths and have shelled out small fortunes. We all know that the culinary art has been responsible for creating the aura behind it and we also know that the culinary art is something of a mystery. It looks easy to do, difficult to master and tastes divine; therefore it mystifies and baffles almost all human beings. To call it an art is an understatement and yet I’ve found out, culinary flair is not the only ultimate ingredient. 

The love of food for many starts at a young age, yet the appreciation of good food only comes to a lucky few at a much later period in their lives. I am one of those lucky few. My love affair with food started early on and during my early adult years I made a conscious decision to cultivate my gastronomic acumen. Along with other few blessed individuals, I am always on a quest for The Perfect Meal, in whatever situation I’m in and where ever I happen to be in the world.

The Perfect Meal can mean different things to different people. A melt-in-your-mouth bistecca alla Fiorentina and a pat of butter with a glass of red Chianti Classico enjoyed in a rustic farmhouse in Toscana. A succulent beef rendang and delicious fish head curry with a plate of steamed white rice, scorching hot red chilli paste and jackfruit stew devoured at one of the abundant Padang restaurants all over Sumatera. Seared moist lamb shawarma with freshly baked flat bread at a Kapalicarsi hole-in-the-wall in Istanbul. A wok of tangy, spicy and addictive fish meal available only at Cha Ca La Vong in Hanoi. A bowl of steaming, aromatic soto kudus with side dishes of clams, crispy ox lungs, deep fried ox brain and sweetened quail eggs all served on individual skewers, eaten in a street stall in Semarang. A made-to-order, thick and juicy portabella mushroom burger with all the trimmings, scrumptious potato wedges and vanilla milk shake, enjoyed at a family-run diner in California. A lightly crusted fresh sea bass, heady pan-fried foie gras and truffles dined at a Michelin star restaurant in Provence. Warm garlic roti prata and a plate of zesty lamb curry downed with copious amount of Tiger beer at one of the ubiquitous Singaporean food-courts. A piping hot flaky croissant, homemade apricot preserves, smooth hazelnut spread and a cup of espresso consumed in a little Parisian coffee shop. A simple fried rice made by mom, topped with heaps of chicken chunks, salted fish, shrimp crackers and an over easy, served with a mug of warm sweet tea.

Whatever it means to some people, I quickly realize that The Perfect Meal includes not only delicious food for all of its dishes and beverages that complement the palate, but almost always calls for ambience and good company. Which then calls the attention to the fact that to accomplish The Perfect Meal, a mere mortal must not only cultivate his taste buds, he must also develop and hone his mind, his wit, his interests, his social skills, his choice of company; in short, his being. The love of food and the pursuit of The Perfect Meal not only heightens a person’s quality of life but also the quality of others.

A wise person once told me, to get to a man’s heart, you must go through first from his stomach and for best results: do it with The Perfect Meal. A very universal and shrewd advice indeed, my friend, if I must say so myself.

Monday, June 20, 2005

42 Hours in Ubud Accompanied by Smell

Rating:★★★★
Category:Restaurants
Cuisine: International
Location:Bali
Arriving in Ubud on a lazy late Sunday afternoon, I realized I have finished reading all my books that I have brought on this trip and so decided that my first stop would be the second hand bookstore near Pasar Ubud. I chose a used paperback titled Smell and instantly fell in love with the first few paragraphs.

--- When the wind blew hard, as it did that very often in spring, the smell of fresh baguette would fight its way into the Epicerie Madras to do battle with the prickly smell of pickles and masalas.

It would enter the store confidently, making light of the heavy-breasted, sari wrapped mannequins, Chinese prayer wheels, and Indian video cassettes that were on display in the large window sill facing the street. Before the shelves of cooked foods – banana chips fried in coconut oil, samosas, gulab jamuns and papads- it would pause, some of its strength diminished by the pungent foreign odours. ---

Smell- by Radhika Jha Paperback: 307 pages Publisher: Soho Press (June 1, 2002) Language: English ISBN: 1569472882 (60K and 50% refundable if you take it back and buy another book. Ganesha Secondhand Bookstore - Ubud)

I now know that my adventure has started, not only that, but on the right culinary note!

I have just finished the first part of my Bali trip in the Jimbaran/Seminyak/Legian/Kuta area and did the usual anak muda Jakarta in Bali stuff in the afternoon and evenings. Dinner at Jimbaran seafood at Menega à must try clams, aargh! , hangin out at Dhyana Pura bars, late night bubur tio ciu at Furama, an afternoon in Tekor and simply loafing about, though I did manage to NOT go to Kudeta, La Luch, Hu’u and those strip of restaurants on Laksamana street near Oberoi, aka Trattoria, Mykonos etc, just cause I wanted to make this trip a little different than my usual Bali trips:). In Jimbaran, I stayed at the Intercon and I must tell you that this resort deserves it’s own review cause the service, room, food and the 24 hour Club lounge: free yummy food and drinks, is truly exceptional! (The Club Room with access to the Club Lounge is 1.7 mio per night.) The Ko Japanese restaurant there must be one of the most elegant I’ve seen and the most delicious Japanese food I’ve had in a blue moon. The bill of course fits the scene.. hehehe…Will get you the review one of these days folks….

Anyway… back to Ubud…the sophisticated village that I fell in love with…
Our first stop for grub is at The Three Monkeys. As it was only around snack time, my companion ordered the soba noodle salad with seaweed while I had the vegetable spring rolls and shared a creamed spinach side dish. The salad was fresh, with a hint of asian spices in the sauce while the soba noodles fought with the greens for space in the plate. I had a bite and had to actually stop myself from stealing from my friend’s plate. My spring rolls (3 pieces) came out in the shape of fingers of a small monster. Crispy and tasty, it also came with a tangy sweet and spicy sauce. Next came the spinach, where they succeeded in making it creamy and flavoursome, without wilting the texture and sacrificing the original spinach taste. (loh emang yang gak orisinil gimana yah???). The Three Monkeys is a beautiful open air restaurant situated next to fields of green paddy that cools your eyes, even though it is located smack in the middle of Monkey Forest Road. Total bill was circa 180’s inclusive of beverages. Steep for snacks, but worthwhile for the setting and taste.

After procuring lodgings for me as I didn’t book anything (Ubud Bungalows 125k per nite, clean, great location, decent breakfast and a great pool!), dinner time rolled around and off we hopped to Deli Cat! Yeay!

Deli Cat is owned by a Norwegian man (who was present at the premises making sure the guests were taken care of) who’s now a local in Ubud and serves authentic cheeses, deli meats and wholesome western meals, all at reasonable prices. Little wonder the expats living in Ubud make this resto as their hangout place. The ambience was relaxed and quite frequently strangers share a table as we did that night. This lovely café is located right in front of the soccer field affording the guests amateur games by locals if they come in the right time of the day. I ordered the Today’s Special, Roast Lamb with Mushroom Sauce with veggies and ‘tatoes for 35k and my friend had the Ham Gammon also with veggies and ‘tatoes and a slice of pineapple on top for also 35 K. For the drinks – we ordered a carafe of red wine, ok, ok, it was two carafes and boy, we were happy campers! Total damage for two hungry people was in the 170’s and it was worth every tasty morsel! The ham was cooked just right and my lamb was succulent without being too fatty.

My friend, who lived in Bali, went back home and left me on my own to explore Ubud for the rest of the trip. So it was me, my novel, the crickets and the cool balmy air that I enjoyed my first evening in Ubud.

My only full day in Ubud started off with breakfast (scrambled eggs, bacon and cheese waffled between two toasts), rented a mountain bike and headed to the paddy fields up in the hills and lovely kampungs. The scenery was breathtaking, the weather gorgeous and the atmosphere just magnificent… Ubud, I am in love…

After 5 hours straight of pumping legs and sweating, my body complained and decided that it deserved some FOOD! Lunch time !!!! Off I head to Tut Mak resto, located just a couple hundred meters from Deli Cat and ordered a light creamy chicken salad packaged in warm tortilla with fresh greens on the side, hmmm yum scrum… and don’t forget the ice cold beer…hehehe… Tut Mak was packed with a late lunch crowd and comes highly recommended by Ubud expats. The bill came to 60K and I rode my bike away happily to one of the ubiquitous spas and treated myself to one of the most deserved massage.

But peace I did not get. My mobile tweedled crying out a text message – my friend who lives in Denpasar is unexpectedly coming up to Ubud to accompany me for dinner! The message explicitly mentioned yummy ribs, hmmmh!! This gotta be good...

A bit of browsing and shopping at the art shops, a swim, a nap, a hot shower and I was ready to paint the village red…. I waited for my friend at this cute casual eatery called The Warung. While waiting, I befriended the owner (a Balinese from Karangasem) of this establishment who turned out also own the world famous Jazz Café down the road and we had a good jolly time talking about famous people who’ve visited his place. The Warung just opened recently and he’s really excited. It serves nasi campur with daily specials, such as opor ayam, tahu tempe and the likes, catering to local and foreign tourist. Reading from the board menu, nasi campur with 3 types of dishes is 15K, 4 types 20K. Clientele was mostly upmarket foreign tourists wanting a taste of traditional Indonesian fare in familiar surroundings.

My friend arrived and quickly transported us to Naughty Nuri’s - which I think is located down at Hanuman Road– famous for its baby back ribs at only 45K per gigantic portion. Two small cute people like me can easily share a plate. It was as long as a small pianica, ya know, the blue one that we had to learn to play in elementary school. Hehehe…Tony Roma’s, please take the back seat, Naughty Nuri’s has just snatched that teeny weeny place in my heart for ribs. The meat was practically falling off the bones and just damn tasty!

After a lazy leisurely breakfast the next morning (Eggs Florentine on thick Farmer’s Bread and a cup of strong coffee), I was on my way back to Benoa to meet up with friends for a delicious lunch in Conrad resort at its famous open air Suku restaurant (Nasi Campur Bali komplit banget, worth every bit if you add in the view), a quick tour of their beautiful spa, a detour to Denpasar to browse a friend’s gallery, Baron Art (filled with antique treasures you cannot imagine...) and in no time I found myself at the lounge at Ngurah Rai Airport waiting for my flight to take me back to ‘reality’.

Yes folks – it only took Ubud 42 hours to make me fall madly in love with it and wanting for more! Great nature, smiling people, lovely art, good food, great places to stay, affordable. I will certainly be back more sooner than later…and yes, next time I promise to visit all the museums and not waste all my time and money in the restaurants. Hehehehe. Liar liar, pants on fire.

O yes, and that book Smell is also recommended. Simply brilliant.