Magical Istanbul

Rating:	★★★★★
Category:	Other

While choosing a romantic destination for our spring getaway a couple of years ago, we were perplexed between Istanbul and the South of France. After doing our homework and research, we decided South of France could wait.

Just the mention of the name evokes mystery, supremacy, history and civilization. Straddling on two continents, Europe and Asia, and originally built on seven hills like Rome, Istanbul is a truly magical city. Overlooking the Sea of Marmara, divided by the Bosphorus Strait, Istanbul is now home to more than 12 million inhabitants. In the mid-fifteen hundreds, when this city was still called Constantinople, it was the biggest city in the world. No surprises then if you find magnificent culture, rich history, spectacular cuisine and blazing modernity in this fantastic metropolis.

We arrived late afternoon and were swiftly whisked to a beautiful little hotel in the Sultanahmet area, near the famous Blue Mosque or Sultanahmet Camii. Early in the evening, we gorged on a sumptuous Turkish dinner accompanied by a beautiful water fountain and light show shown nightly at the Blue Mosque’s entrance. After we had our fill of meze (appetizers), iskender kebab (grilled lamb), raki (a popular drink known as Lion’s Milk, a grape spirit flavored with aniseed) and mouth-watering baklava (sweet filo pastry), we were ready to explore the town. Our first stop was to watch the Whirling Dervish performance, reminiscent of the Sufi order that was the heart of Istanbul’s spirit until it was abolished in the 1920’s. The performance consists of a group of men wearing flowing white robes spinning around relentlessly and flawlessly as if on an axis accompanied by haunting music. We then headed to an outdoor café to smoke water pipes and watched the Istanbulis and tourists alike pass while we engaged in one of Turkey’s nationa l pastimes, playing the well-loved backgammon and sipping very sweet elma çay (apple tea).

Our first stop in the morning the next day after a breakfast of the omnipresent simit (sesame bread ring), was the celebrated and beautiful Aya Sofya, originally christened as a church, converted into a mosque after the Ottoman conquest and now a museum. Topkapi Sarayi or Topkapi Palace was next on our list. The palace is home to some of the most prized Imperial Treasures including the 86-carat Spoonmaker’s Diamond. It also houses the legendary Harem and several of the most sacred relics in Islam, including a hair and tooth of Prophet Mohammed (Yes, I too was surprised!). After lunching on heavenly saç kavurma (wok-fried meat and veggies) and juicy döner, we headed to the Arkeoloji Müzesi or simply Archaeological Museum. Located next door to Topkapi Palace, it offers some of the world’s finest collection of artifacts and classical sculptures. After a full day of sightseeing, we decided to set off to Taksim Meydani or Taksim Square for
dinner and a taste of Stambul’s nightlife. A business hub at day, Taksim materializes into an amazing endless maze of streets filled with out door cafés, bars, clubs and restaurants at night. We enjoyed a hearty köfte (meat balls) and the ubiquitous Efes beer for dinner at one the livelier outdoor eateries. As the evening wore on, we kept seeing fashionable people going in to a dark and
deserted building near our café without any shop sign. We wandered over and went up the stairs. After passing the bouncer, lo and behold, we found a gem of a three-story bar cum club packed with beautiful people in the know. Thumping music, carousing, lots of dancing, anything and everything is available for the asking!

Nursing the excess of our exhilarating night, we dedicated our third day in Istanbul for shopping.Immersing ourselves in Kapalicarsi or Covered Bazaar, one of the largest and most famous covered markets in the world, we discovered shopping galore! Selling everything from carpets, jewelry, books, precious stones, leather, clothes, foodstuff, spices, antiques, knock-off Gucci bags to tourist memorabilia, this market accommodates 4,000 shops and restaurants. We made sure to bring
enough Travelers Cheques (as this place is also notorious for its pickpockets) and a well-used American Express card to satisfy our shopping craves! After building an enormous appetite for a late lunch, we sat ourselves at one of the numerous stalls in the market that served a gorgeous iºkembe çorbasi (tripe soup), a delicious heartwarming dish also known as a hangover cure. Finally, to relieve our swollen muscles from the grueling task of shopping, we treated ourselves to a superb hamami (Turkish bath), where they gave us a proper full body scrub and massage at a hararet (hot room) before bathing. We had our hamami at Gedik Pasa Baths, which date back from 1475 and is one the oldest and grandest baths in the city.

After a fantastic fish dinner with Çankaya wine on the Bosphorus and a good night’s sleep, wedecided to spend our last full day for an excursion to Adalar or the Princes’ Islands, journeying a two-hour scenic ferry ride from Sirkeçi pier. It was named the Princes’ Islands as it used to serve as a place for exiled royals who were no longer welcomed at court. The islands are a pedestrian’s bliss, as motor vehicles are not allowed. All the better, as walking is a much better
way to enjoy the beaches and roam the narrow streets to enjoy the beautiful konaks (wooden summer homes) where rich Istanbulis spend their weekends, while licking our luscious hazelnut dondurma (homemade Turkish ice cream).

We spent the last morning wandering around town and traipsing into the odd mosques and museums that caught our fancy, all the while taking in the scenery and the city’s vibe as much as we can. Two flight stops, twelve hours and three extra kilos later, we were back in good ole Jakarta. We realize we haven’t seen all the magic that magical Istanbul has to offer, but no regrets, as we definitely will make it an excuse to come back! And the best thing of it all? You don’t even need a visa!

Ain't life grand?